Since the Victorian era, the vest (or waistcoat) has been considered a centerpiece of finer menswear. But outside of the Hope diamond, men’s vests are the world’s largest wearable accessory and are literally in the middle of your entire ensemble. So tread carefully!
The styling cues go back many centuries. For instance, one of Queen Victoria’s sons, Edward, was hefty enough that he couldn’t manage to get the bottom buttons on his vest closed, and wore them open. Society followed the royal lead, and thus the bulk of men’s suits, vests or sport coats are not designed to button on the bottom.
But vests are not meant to be purely a showpiece, so stop here if you’re even thinking about doing something fluorescent, overly bright or otherwise vulgar.
Do think about mixing textures—so play creatively (but don’t get too crazy) with wool, cotton, silk or even light tweeds. For example, opt for a vest that’s wool with a cotton slub pant or a flat fabric trouser like khaki or denim with a silk vest. As ever, exercise caution.
According to Los Angeles fashion designer Elizabeth Coleman, it pays to be neat. “Do not ever do wrinkly. If you’re going to take the time to wear a vest you should be proper about it.” And if you’re manly enough to use a good pop of color, remember women love blues on men, like navy, cobalt or the like. Or try out a play on tones—darker pants with a neutral top, or one that isn’t too contrasting.
Proper fit is essential. Too small and you’ll look flabby; too large and you look sloppy. And for a bit of extra flair, you can top it off with an understated hat and you’ll become a dapper dandy indeed.
